Micronized Azelaic Acid: Addressing Formulation Challenges in Acne and Skin Tone Care

At IXOM, we work closely with customers exploring emerging ingredient technologies that can help address both consumer expectations and formulation challenges.

Formulators and brand owners are increasingly paying attention to micronized azelaic acid, which offers an alternative approach to incorporating this well-established ingredient into modern skincare formulations.

At the same time, growing consumer awareness of multifunctional skincare ingredients has contributed to increased interest in azelaic acid, particularly in products designed to support clearer-looking and more even-toned skin.

In this article based on insights from our supplier, Vantage Personal Care, we explore how a new micronized azelaic acid offering, AZENOVA™, is helping formulators address stability, sensory and efficacy challenges in products targeting acne-prone skin, redness, and uneven skin tone.

Why Azelaic Acid Continues to Gain Attention

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that has been widely studied for its versatility in skincare applications. Research has linked azelaic acid with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, keratolytic and skin-brightening benefits, making it relevant for formulations targeting multiple skin concerns.

Formulators are increasingly seeking ingredients that can address interconnected concerns such as:

• Acne-prone skin
• Redness and visible irritation
• Uneven skin tone
• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
• Skin texture concerns

With azelaic acid becoming a regular feature in new product launches across serums, creams and targeted treatments, consumer interest is only growing in this versatile product.

The Formulation Challenge with Traditional Azelaic Acid

Despite its established benefits, azelaic acid can present formulation difficulties.

Traditional azelaic acid is typically supplied as a crystalline powder with limited solubility in both water and oil phases. Under certain conditions, formulations may recrystallise within emulsions and gels, which can affect product stability and create a gritty sensory profile while presenting additional processing requirements during manufacturing.

These characteristics can create challenges for formulators seeking elegant textures, stable systems and high active loading levels, leading to strong interest in alternative delivery formats for azelaic acid.

A Micronized Approach to Azelaic Acid

AZENOVA™ was developed to help address some of these formulation barriers.

The ingredient is a patent-pending flowable gel containing 45% micronized azelaic acid that has been pre-dispersed for incorporation into emulsions and gel systems. According to Vantage, the micronization and suspension process enables easier handling while supporting improved dispersion throughout the formulation.

AZENOVA™'s key characteristics include:

• Flowable liquid format
• 45% micronized azelaic acid
• Pre-dispersed delivery system
• ISO 16128 natural origin index of 100%
• Preservative-free composition

What Does Micronization Mean for Performance?

Particle size can play an important role in both formulation aesthetics and ingredient performance.

In supplier testing, formulations containing micronized azelaic acid demonstrated activity comparable to higher concentrations of conventional azelaic acid across several in vitro models. The studies reported:

• Support for Acne-Prone Skin
  Testing against Cutibacterium acnes found that formulations containing 5% micronized azelaic acid achieved bacterial count reductions comparable to formulations containing 10% conventional azelaic acid.
• Anti-Inflammatory Activity
  Additional testing measured IL-8 expression, an inflammatory marker associated with acne-related skin responses. Results indicated that 5% micronized azelaic acid delivered similar reductions in IL-8 expression compared with 10% conventional azelaic acid.
• Skin Tone Management
  In melanogenesis studies, 5% micronized azelaic acid demonstrated melanin inhibition comparable to both 1% kojic acid and 10% conventional azelaic acid under the study conditions. Our supplier's melanin inhibition data highlights the comparative performance observed during testing.

Note: These results are based on supplier-provided laboratory studies and should be independently assessed when developing product claims.

Improving Sensory and Stability Considerations

Beyond efficacy, consumer acceptance often depends on texture and product aesthetics.

According to Vantage, the micronized particle size reduces the presence of large azelaic acid aggregates that can contribute to grittiness in finished formulations. In sensory evaluation, panellists were able to distinguish formulations made with micronized azelaic acid from those made with conventional azelaic acid, indicating a perceivable difference in texture.

For brands developing leave-on treatments, serums and gel-based products, sensory improvements can be just as important as active performance.

Formulation Opportunities

AZENOVA™ is recommended for use in a variety of skincare formats, including:

• Serums
• Gel creams
• Fluid lotions
• Acne-focused treatments
• Emulsion systems

Supplier guidance recommends:

• Use levels of 11.1% to 22.2% as supplied
• Equivalent active azelaic acid levels of 5% to 10%
• Finished product pH between 4.0 and 5.5

The ingredient is reported as compatible with a broad range of glycols, preservatives, surfactants and rheology modifiers commonly used in personal care formulations.

Looking Ahead

Consumers are increasingly seeking products that address multiple skin concerns through streamlined routines. For formulators, this trend places greater emphasis on ingredients capable of supporting acne management, skin comfort and tone-evening benefits within a single formulation.

Micronized azelaic acid technologies such as AZENOVA™ represent an interesting development in this category, helping address some of the technical challenges traditionally associated with azelaic acid while maintaining the ingredient's well-established multifunctional profile.

Every formulation project brings its own technical considerations and performance goals. If you're exploring new approaches to acne care, skin tone management or formulation aesthetics, contact the IXOM Life Sciences team and start a conversation with us about the opportunities and challenges shaping your next development project.